Aarti Paarti Ep. 25: Sheesh! Kebabs

Posted by Aarti on September 23rd, 2009 . Filed under: Uncategorized .

Growing up in Dubai, Dad would sometimes surprise us with a feast of Lebanese food on Fridays (our day off).

I’d wait impatiently whilst he drove to the little place 10 minutes down the road from us, prepping the ONE soda that my parents allowed me per week (chilling the glass in the fridge, slicing a piece of lemon to top the whole thing off. Yup. I went through that kind of trouble over a diet Coke. At that age, I thought everyone did it. Telling, huh?)

Once the food had arrived, we’d pile our plates high with generous dollops of smooth hummus, pleasantly bumpy babaghanoush, fresh peppery greens, crunchy radishes, warm bread and of course, the piece de resistance, KEBABS!

Chicken, beef, lamb — why are kebabs so much fun to eat?! Perhaps it’s that inviting char, the pre-portioned pieces of meat, the promise of a crispy exterior and a tender interior. Perhaps though, it’s something deeper: a pull only explained by our ancestry as cavemen? Man, woman, fire, meat?

As if they weren’t delicious enough, I fondly remember that one piece of pita bread that had been lying under the kebabs, soaking up all those exquisite juices; oh how we’d fight over that piece of bread! Ooof! My favourite kebab is the Lula kebab, or the Koobideh kebab, as the Persians put it. The Indians have their own version of this one too, called seekh kebab. Great minds must think alike: All of them consist of ground beef or lamb (or mutton), mixed together with some onions and spices, shaped into long logs, skewered and then cooked over a grill or in a tandoor oven. I find them so much more satisfying than other kebabs: tender, flavourful, and easy to digest.

But they are harder to make than you think. I literally made this recipe 3 or 4 times, hoping to get it to the right consistency. Finally, one late Wednesday night, when Bren was away at a rehearsal, I cracked it! And I had no one to shout to about it! Thank goodness I get to share it with you!

The secret lies in two parts: first, use a little baking soda to help the meat hold together (I can’t tell you how disappointing it is when your skewer falls apart before you very eyes) and secondly, knead the heck out of it!

I know that second secret may strike some of you as blasphemy. I don’t know how often I’ve been told not to overwork ground meat, whether it’s for burgers or meatloaf, or else you run the risk of eating a tough, dry hockey puck. In this case though, if you don’t knead it well, the meat doesn’t turn sticky, and your kebabs turn out tough and oddly-textured. So this is probably the only time you’ll hear me say this: BLASPHEME AWAY! You’ll thank me, I promise you!

I made them using lamb, because I love the way lamb stands up to the combination of shallot, ginger, garlic and mint. But you can use beef if you don’t like lamb. Oh, and I hope you’ll allow me to gild the lily a little, by adding some pomegranate molasses to this recipe — I made a glaze using lemon juice and pomegranate molasses that turns the ordinary lamb kebab into something extraordinary: sweet, tangy, sour, umami. Pardon me while I faint.

If you have trouble finding pomegranate molasses (Middle Eastern shops have it), you can make your own by boiling down some pomegranate juice (the pure stuff, not the kind mixed with blueberries or mangoes or whatever) with some sugar. Presto!

I hope you’ll give these a go. They’re a cheap way to work some meat into your menu (the whole thing, including a bottle of molasses probably cost me about $15 and it’ll feed 4 quite comfortably), and your friends and family will think you’re extraordinarily fancy, even though they are super easy and quick to pull together. Plus you can make the kebabs up to a day in advance, and grill them right before serving! Sheesh! Splendid!

Sheesh! Kebabs
Ground Lamb kebabs with Pomegranate glaze
2 medium shallots
2 cloves garlic
3 quarter-sized slices ginger
Handful of cilantro
4 sprigs mint
Zest of one lemon, and separately, its juice
3/4 tsp kosher salt
Lots of freshly ground pepper
1/4 tsp garam masala (optional)
1/2 tsp baking soda
1lb ground lamb
2 tbsp pomegranate molasses + 2 tbsp extra for glaze
Special equipment: Food processor if you have it, 8 bamboo skewers, stovetop griddle or big nonstick pan or outside grill
1) Bring lamb to room temperature. If you’re going to cook your kebabs on the grill, soak ‘em in water for at least 30 minutes, so they don’t burn.
2) Grab your food processor. You can chop all this by hand too; just make sure to chop it all up very finely.
3) Throw shallots, garlic, ginger, lemon zest, cilantro, mint and salt into processor. Grind until very finely chopped.
4) Throw lamb into big bowl. Add the shallot mixture, pomegranate molasses, baking soda, garam masala and pepper to the meat. Using your hands, knead 2 to 5 minutes until meat lightens in colour, taking on the appearance of knitted fabric. It will also be very sticky. Perfect!
5) Divide the meat in half, then half again, and then half again, until you have 8 mounds.
6) Have a platter ready for your completed kebabs. Drizzle a little oil on the platter so the kebabs don’t stick.
7) Have your bamboo skewers standing by. Take one ball of meat, and roll it into a short stump. Thread the skewer through it, then begin shaping the kebab with quick strokes, pulling the meat down. It should be a little over 1/4″ thick. Roll the kebab between your hands to seal the meat. Repeat.
8) Heat griddle over medium heat, drizzling oil over it, so that when it starts to smoke, you’ll know it’s ready. Meanwhile, mix the juice of half the lemon with extra 2 tbsp pomegranate molasses in a small bowl.
9) When it’s hot, place the skewers on the grill. Cook about 2 minutes, then turn a quarter of the way. Brush with lemon-molasses glaze, and cook another 2 minutes. Continue in this way until you’ve cooked the meat 8-10 minutes.
10) Serve, alongside cucumber-pomegranate raita (recipe tomorrow!).

-x-
aarti

19 Responses to Aarti Paarti Ep. 25: Sheesh! Kebabs

  1. abridgetobrooklyn

    Wow! Another great recipe. I tried several while I was on vacation visiting my family.
    I want to try this, I just have to hunt down the Pomegranate molasses first. (It is always tempting for me to just find a substitution, but since you claim you PERFECTED this…I will not stray from the recipe even though it will require will power since I want THEM RIGHT NOW!)

  2. aartilla the fun

    well, it is pretty excellent with the pom molasses. however, i wonder if you could make a syrup out of grape juice or something? that might work… just boil it down, adding sugar if you want to thicken it quicker… might work?

    otherwise, make the syrup from pomegranate juice! it's the same thing! oh man, i wish i had some right now!

  3. vincent

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  4. aartilla the fun

    oh hey bridge to brooklyn — i have an extra bottle… want me to send it to you?

  5. Helmy Antonie

    Hello people, it is Thanksgiving Day! I’m happy with my extra day off, and I am planning to doing something fun that’ll probably involve a car trip and seeing something new in Kankakee I haven’t seen yet.
    You write new post at Thanksgiving?

  6. Elsie Erret

    Well-written. Thanks. I have been learning a lot about Asian cooking lately. There are a lot of creative recipes using rice out there, the trick is finding one that really brings out the flavor of the rice you are using. Visit my blog if you’d like to read more. Thanks again for this blog – it is really informative.

  7. Susie Masson

    Hi Aarti – Found your blog while searching for a recipe for lamb kebabs after we had them in Jamaica on vacation. Your recipe is SO close – quite good. Here in the middle of Wyoming we can get fab organic lamb – for no more than you find it in the city. I added a dipping sauce – juice of 1/2 lemon, a couple spriggs of mint, a handful of cilantro, salt, a little garam masala, a teaspoon of sriracha chili sauce and a couple tablespoons of plain Greek yogurt. Was similar to the way we were served at the resort restaurant in Jamaica. Thank you so much! And good luck – you have good recipes and are fun to watch. I’ll be trying more of them!

  8. Aarti

    susie! how wonderful that you found me! i’m so glad. your dipping sauce sounds fantastic, and a great idea. funnily enough, i normally serve this with a cucumber raita, so we are on the same wavelength with the yogurt!

  9. Justin

    Hi Aarti,

    I saw you make this dish on TNFNS and it sounds wonderful. Can’t wait to give it a try. Just wondering, many recipes call for soaking bamboo skewers in water for a while before using them on the grill, do you think it’s important in this dish? Or just a wasted step?

    My wife and I are really hoping you win TNFNS–we’re literally cheering for you in our living room. We’re sending you good luck vibes…

  10. aartipaarti» Blog Archive » Kebabs!

    [...] watch the Aarti Paarti video I made a few months ago, showing you HOW to make ‘em? Cool, huh? You can find it here. It features a great variety act: my excellent drummer friend, Andy. You may notice a few [...]

  11. Alex Kaplan

    I just made these tonight. THEY WERE AMAZING!!! A new family favorite dish!!! Thank you so much and I’m looking forward to making these again and again!

  12. Jason Dixon

    While I love your blog here, as well as you on TNFNS, this recipe failed for me tonight. I think it was due to the substitution of ground chicken. The mixture was sticky, but didn’t have the consistency to hang onto the skewers. Fortunately I was able to salvage the meal by forming some burgers out of the mixture.

    In the end, I’ll take the blame for the failure. But you might want to add a caveat to your recipe to avoid chicken substitutes.

    Good luck on TNFNS, we’re rooting for you!

  13. debjani

    looks so yummy! I have been craving for some new kebabs for some tym! Thanks Aarti1 and All the very best for the food network challenge :)

  14. sarah

    Oh shoot. I was hoping to substitue ground chicken or ground turkey for the lamb or beef but I see @Jason Dixon that the substitution didn’t work. We don’t eat red meat. Aarti, do you have any suggestions for a non-red meat substitute (no pork either)?

    P.S. You are brilliant on TNFNS and I’m rooting for you!

  15. Hinali

    Aarti,

    Just wanted to point out that there was no video for the Sheesh! Kebabs or at least I couldn’t view it at home or at work. Is it on youtube somewhere? Is there even a video?

    Btw… I hope you’re a finalist on the show. You’re a great inspiration.

  16. Lethe

    A microwave is ideal for reducing sauces, because you can just boil away in a pyrex measuring cup and you don’t have to stir or worry about burning. Being a measuring cup, it is easy to see when you have gotten the amount of reduction you desire. That would be ideal for making something like pomegranate molasses as easy as possible.

  17. Sofia

    Dear Aarti,

    First, let me tell you how lovely you looked in the green dress on The Next Food Network Star!

    I saw this dish and had to make it! I have a question for you: You said on the show that you used Zaatar/Zahtar spice while making the dish. I have been looking for this spice and I discovered that there are a few varieties of it. Which specific spice blends do you recommend for Zaatar?

    Thank you!

  18. kate c.w.

    Hi Aarti, I was just wondering if you have ever tried yang rou chuan? My husband is from northern China and he calls them “chuar”. They are lamb skewers that area apparently a Chinese Islamic dish… they’re everywhere in the area he’s from. Here’s a recipe I just found – http://www.boston.com/lifestyle/food/articles/2010/05/26/yang_rou_chuan_spicy_lamb_kebabs_recipe/

    So good!

  19. emily

    I am so excited to try this recipe, but I don’t have a griddle or a grill. Could these be cooked under the broiler? Thanks!

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